PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE
CHURCHES
ST-ETIENNE-DU-MONT
Begun in 1492, the church was only completed in 1626, and its originality lies in its harmonious combination of styles: the chancel and the tower are late Gothic and the Renaissance facade is unique with its three superimposed pediments. Inside, the church is well lit by a row of windows replacing the traditional triforium. The magnificent roodscreen, framed by two graceful open spiral staircases, was built at the beginning of the 16th-century by Antoine Beaucorps according to drawings by Philibert Delorme. Notice also the beautiful pulpit, dating from 1650, and some attractive 16th-century stained glass behind it. Further along, past the roodscreen on the right, is St Genevieve's shrine, containing relics of the patron saint of Paris. The philosopher and mathematician, Pascal, and the playwright, Racine, are buried behind the chancel.
Ste-Genevieve, next to the Pantheon.
Closed: Mondays in July and August.
ST-EUSTACHE
This was the parish church of Les Halles and now that the old food market has gone, it can be seen from afar. In 1532 work started on an imposing Gothic building modelled on Notre-Dame and dedicated to St Eustace. Although it took 100 years to build, the original plans were followed to the letter, and it was a truly Gothic church that was consecrated in 1637. Unfortunately, the 18th-century neo-classical facade that replaced the original one has rather spoilt the overall effect. Many famous people are connected with St-Eustache: Richelieu and Moliere were baptised with its walls; the latter was also buried there, as were the author, La Fontaine, Colbert, Louis XIV's finance minister, and the composer, Rameau. The dimensions of the building are even more impressive from the inside than the outside. Notice the unusual height of the double aisles, the fine vault and the stained-glass windows in the chancel, dating from 1631 and featuring St Eustace among the apostles. The church is decorated with exceptional monuments and fine works of art, including Les Pelerins d'Emmaus, an early Rubens; it also has a strong musical tradition.
Rue du Four, next to the Forum des Halles.
ST-GERMAIN DES PRES
This was the church of a powerful Benedictine abbey, a great centre of learning, which owned most of the Left Bank until the 17th-century. The abbey buildings were destroyed during the 1789 Revolution, but the Romanesque church was saved and restored in the 19th-century. It offers an original mixture of styles: the chancel and nave are Romanesque with Gothic vaulting, the massive tower acquired a steeple and the original porch is masked by a door added in 1607. Inside, the chancel and ambulatory are the most interesting parts: notice the traditional carvings on the capitals and the ornamental triforium; thee marble shafts of tits columns come from the original 6th-century church.
Place St-Germain-des-Pres.
ST-GERMAIN-L'AUXERROIS
The church was built in the 12th-century, but has been continually remodelled for 400 years. As a result it has a Romanesque belfry, a Gothic chancel and a late-Gothic porch, while the aisle round the chancel is Renaissance. It is unfortunately associated with one of the darkest episodes of French history. In 1572, its bells gave the signal for the Massacre of St Bartholomew when thousands of Protestants were murdered as a result of a plot between the Cardinal, Duc de Guise, Catherine de Medicis, Charles IX and the future Henri III. Inside there are some interesting works of art, including a 16th-century Flemish reredos in the fourth chapel on the left of the nave, 15th-century stained-glass in the transept and the rose windows, and a polychrome statue of St-Germain in front of the chancel.
Place du Louvre.
ST-GERVAIS-ST-PROTAIS
Dedicated to two Roman officers martyred under Nero, this church offers ans interesting contrast of styles; the main part is late Gothic with a three-tiered classical facade. Inside there are beautifully carved stalls, 16th and 17th-century stained glass and a fine 17th-century organ.
Place St-Gervais
Closed: Mondays.
ST-MEDARD
This late-Gothic church was completed in the 17th-century. Inside there is a 16th-century triptych, as well as other paintings of the French school and an interesting 17th-century organ loft.
Rue Mouffetard
Closed: Mondays.
ST-MERRI
This is another late-Gothic church, completed in 1612. The interior was considerably remodelled under Louis XV and the only original features are the stained-glass windows in the chancel. The composer, Camille St-Saens, used to play on the 17th-century organ, and there are regular concerts in the summer.
Rue de la Verrerie
ST-ROCH
This is a fine example of classical architecture. Its foundation stone was laid by Louis XIV in 1653, but work was delayed through lack of funds and it was not completed until the 18th-century. The facade, in the Jesuit style, dates from 1735. In 1795, Bonaparte charged a group of royalist rebels and the bullet holes can still be seen on the facade.
rue St-Honore
Closed: Sundays, except between 5pm - 6:30pm.
ST-SEVERIN
Situated in one of the oldest districts of Paris, St-Severin is named after a hermit who lived in the area in the 6th-century. Work on the present building began in the 13th-century and went on until 1530. Thus the facade and part of the nave are basically early Gothic, while the rest is late Gothic. In 1681, the Grande Mademoiselle, Louis XIV's cousin, had the chancel altered by the famous architect, Le Brun. Furthmore, the 13th-century west door originally belonged to a nearby church, which was demolished in 1839. inside , the most remarkable feature is the double ambulatory with its spiral central columns, looking like palm trees under the ribbed vaulting. There is beautiful 16th-century stained glass in the upper windows and modern stained glass by Bazaine in the chapels at the east end.
Rue des pretres-St-Severin
Open: Monday - Friday.
ST SULPICE
The church was originally built by the Abbey of St-Germain-des-Pres as a parish church for the surrounding area. The present building was started in 1646 and many architects worked on it until 1732, when it was decided to abandon the austere classical style. The Florentine architect, Servandoni, was selected to give the church an Italian-style facade. As you enter, you will notice two giant shells mounted on supports carved by Pagalle; they were offered by the Venetian Republic in 1745. The first chapel on the right as you face the chancel has remarkable murals full of romantic inspiration, painted by Delacroix between 1849 and 1861.
Place St-Sulpice, near the Luxembourg and St-Germain-des-Pres.
INVALIDES
This imposing group of buildings is an outstanding example of 17th-century classical architecture, situated at the end of a vast oblong open space stretching across from the Seine. Like Versailles, it epitomises the strength and confidence of the French monarchy under Louis XIV. Moreover, the whole surrounding area, with its wide tree-lined avenues, the Faubourg St_Germain on one side and the Champ de Mars on the other , adds to the impression of space and grandeur. Sought after by wealthy Parisians, it has become a quiet, secluded residential district.
A PENSIONER'S HOME
At the beginning of reign, Louis XIV had difficulty in establishing himself on the throne of France, and realised the importance of a strong army. However, recruitment was difficult, because of the appalling conditions faced by wounded soldiers. In order to encourage potential recruits, the king decided in 1670 to found a hospital and pension home for 4,000 invalid ex-soldiers. Work started in 1671 and lasted for five years.
A SHINING MONUMENT
The king then commissioned the young architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart to design a church with a magnificent gift dome. In 1840, after years of negotiation with the British Government, Napolean's remains were returned to France and officially buried in the Eglise du Dome and Les Invalides became a symbol of the emperor's glory.
THE ESPLANDADE DES INVALIDES
The best way to approach the Invalides is from the Pont Alexandre III. The vast esplanade designed by Robert de Cotte at the beginning of the 18th-century, is 500m long and 250m wide. From here you can enjoy sweeping views of the harmonious ensemble of buildings. A formal garden, surrounded by a dry moat, has 17th and 18th-century bronze heavy guns; beyond it, the impressive doorway, flanked by twin pavilions, is adorned by an equestrian statue of Louis XIV, dating from 1815.
THE COUR D'HONNEUR
The paved courtyard is lined with arcades on two storeys. Four pavilions surmounted by carved pediments have dormer windows adorned with trophies, and in the four corners, at roof level, there are carved horses trampling the emblems of war. More heavy guns complete this imposing setting. On either side of the courtyard are the collections of the Musee de l'Armee, while, at the end, is the entrance to St-Louis church.
ST-LOUIS-DES-INVALIDES
This is the original church by Liberal Bruant, also known as the soldiers' church, a cold building decorated only with flags and standards taken form the enemy. The Eglise du Dome is visible through a glass panel behind the altar. The magnificent 17th-century organ was used for the premiere of Berlioz's Requiem in 1837.
Open: 10am - 5pm, 6pm in summer.
EGLISE DU DOME
Begun in 1677, the Eglise du Dome was completed in 1735. The tiered facade with Doric and Corinthian columns is adorned with statues of St-Louis, Charlemagne and the four virtues, and further enhanced by the well-proportioned dome. The interior is magnificently decorated with different marbles, painted cupolas, columns and low reliefs. All round the church, in the side chapels, are the tombs of several of Napolean's generals as well as those of Turenne, Lyautey and Foch.
Hotel des Invalides
Tel: 45 55 37 70
Open: 10am - 5pm, 6pm in summer. Admission charge.
MARKETS
Markets still represent a significant aspect of Parisian life, the continuation of an old tradition, which has its beginnings back in the Middle Ages.
OPEN-AIR MARKETS
These are the most ancient type of markets, but they have, for some time, been in fierce competition with the large supermarkets to supply Parisian households with fresh food. However, this is one battle the big stores are not about to win, for not only do open-air markets offer their demanding customers good quality and low prices, but they are also the very fibre of a district's social life, a meeting-place where neighbours of different backgrounds exchange opinions.
Some of these markets are organised by the municipality and usually take place on two or three mornings a week, on a square or large open space. Canopied stalls are put up the night before, and early in the morning stall holders park their vans all around, usually creating huge traffic jams. They come straight from the central food market at Rungis, and their prices are very competitive indeed. Two such markets can be found in the Latin Quarter on the place Monge and the place Maubert.
Street markets usually run on a slightly different principle. Shops that sell fresh food in a particular street set up stands outside their premises on every day of the week except one, and advertise special offers. Greengrocers attract a large clientele, but cheese stalls are also popular, and chickens are frequently seen roasting outside butchers' shops. These markets are open until early evening to enable working people to get their daily supply of fresh vegetables on their way home. The rue Mouffetard and the rue de Buci markets in the Latin Quarter are among the best in Paris; the rue Lepic in Montmartre is also very attractive and lively.
COVERED MARKETS
These are also steeped in tradition as they are the direct descendants of medieval structures known as halles, which usually consisted of a solid roof resting on large wooden pillars. With the development of the city, covered markets were implanted in outlying districts and their appearance changed considerably. Today they are housed in proper buildings belonging to the municipality. They have cubicles all round and fixed stalls in the centre where carefully selected shopkeepers offer good service in a friendly atmosphere. In addition to food shops of every kind, some precincts include sub-post offices, cobblers and even opticians. There are 13 covered markets in Paris, all to be found on the Right Bank except one, which is situated in the rue Mabillon in St-Germain-des-Pres. Another interesting market is in the rue Lebon, near the place des Ternes, in the 17th arrondissement.
SPECIALISED MARKETS
The loveliest flower market in Paris is situated on the delightful place Louis-Lepine, a peaceful enclave on the northern side of the Ile-de-la-Cite. It takes place everyday from 8am to 7pm, except on Sunday when it is replaced by a bird market.
Another pleasant flower market is held on the place de la Madeleine. There is also a small pet market along the quai de la Megisserie, on the right bank.
On the corner of the avenue de Marigny and the avenue Gabriel, an extensive stamp market takes place on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Cheap new and second-hand clothes are sold in a covered market every morning except Monday on the Carreau du Temple.
FLEA MARKETS
The most famous flea market in Paris is the Marches aux Puces of the Porte de Clignancourt, in St-Ouen, which takes place on Saturday, Sunday and Monday between 7am and 7pm. Unfortunately, it has developed into a well-organised trading centre and bargains are very rare these days. The stalls are grouped in eight separate structures according to their speciality.
Other, similar but more genuine markets are held in the open, on Saturday and Sunday along the avenues Georges-Lafenestre and Marc_Sangnier, and avenue de la Porte de Montreuil.
SHOPPING CENTRES
In places a wide variety of boutiques are gathered under one roof for convenience.
The Forum des Halles, rue Pierre Lescot, is an underground complex with shops of all sizes selling just about everything you could possibly imagine or want, from foie gras to shoes.
The galleries des Champs Elysees, on the north side of the famous avenue, between the Rond-Point and the rue de Berri, are worth exploring for their elegant boutiques.
The vast shopping complex at La Defense, Les Quatre Temps, has a network of lanes lined with shops on several levels and a huge hypermarket called Auchan.
SPECIALISED STREETS AND AREAS
In the 9th arrondissement there are busy shopping streets north of the boulevard Haussmann, with a number of stamp-collectors, high-class confectioners, up-market decorators and fashion boutiques.
Not far from there, in the 8th arrondissement, the area round the place de l'Europe is well known for its musical instrument-makers and dealers.
On the place de la Madeleine can be found the finest high-class grocers and delicatessens in Paris: Fauchon and Hediard.
South of the boulevard Haussmann, the avenue Matignon and rue du Faubourg St-Honore are famous for their art galleries, while the avenue Montagne and rue Francois I are the headquarters of fashion designers; the rue La Boetie counts many antique dealers and the rue de la Paix and place Vendome are lined with exclusive jewellers. The main glass and china manufacturers have their showrooms along the rue de Paradis, near the gare de l'Est in the 10th arrondissement.
On the south bank, the rue du Four, rue Bonaparte and rue de Rennes, near St-Germain-des-Pres in the 6th arrondissement, are well-known for their fashion boutiques.
WHERE TO FIND WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
If you are looking for something specific, the following selection of shops should be of help.
ANTIQUES
LE LOUVRE DES ANTIQUAIRES
2 place du Palais-Royal, opposite the Louvre
Tel: 42 97 27 00
Its 250 shops offer plenty of choice from French furniture to jewellery.
THE VILLAGE SUISSE
78 avenue
Tel: 40690
Over 100 dealers sell good quality ornaments and furniture.
The Famous Auctioneers, DROUOT
9 rue Drouot and 15 avenue Montaigne
Tel: 48 00 20 20 and 48 00 20 80
Over 50 antique dealers are established in the tiny pedestrian streets of the Village St-Paul in the Marais.
You can buy old prints and postcards from the booksellers on the quais along the banks of the Seine.
BOOKS
The largest bookshops in Paris are the book departments of the FNAC stores, in boulevard St-Germain, the Forum des Halles and avenue des Ternes.
Many traditional bookshops are established in the 6th arrondissement, in and around the boulevard St-Germain. Books in English are available from three of the following stores.
W H SMITH
248 rue de Rivoli
Tel: 42 60 37 97
GALIGNANI (a well-stocked, old-fashioned bookshop, with bilingual service)
224 rue de Rivoli
Tel: 42 60 76 07
BRENTANO'S
37 avenue
42 61 52 50
CLOTHES
Apart from the exclusive fashion designers in the 8th arrondissement, there are trendy fashion boutiques in the area round the church of St-Germain des Pres, while department stores have a choice of more traditional wear. Bargains can be found in the avenue de Clichy in the 17th arrondissement.
CULTURE
Foreigners usually expect to discover in Paris the very essence of French culture and they are right to a certain extent, although provincial French people would not agree, however proud they may be of their capital. Wit, elegance and energy are all to be found in Paris. Parisians are aware that the rest of France is watching them and have always considered this a worthwhile challenge. As a result, they have developed a strong need to innovate as well as a tremendous drive t achieve their goals. This is nowhere more apparent than in the way the city is being gradually steered into the 21st-century.
THE CHANGING FACE OF PARIS
Systematic restoration work has recently been undertaken, and some buildings have acquired a renewed and original usefulness. The magnificent but obsolete Gare d'Orsay has been renovated in an imaginative way and turned into an art museum, while a glass pyramid lets daylight into the new underground entrance hall of the Louvre Museum. Moreover, for the first time, whole districts have been saved from dereliction with the help of modern techniques; thus the splendour of the past has come to life again in the Marais. At the same time, vast architectural projects have, in the last 20 years, ensured cultural continuity; some of them, such as the Forum des Halles, La Villette and La Defense, are particularly striking. The simplicity of their outlines is enhanced by the quality and beauty of the building materials used.
A CERTAIN WAY OF LIFE
Parisians may be fond of new ideas, but they are also conservative and their lifestyle reflects this constant conflict between innovation and tradition. Paris has always been a compact city and Parisians have become used to living in cramped conditions, in blocks of flats that traditionally have six storeys and a concierge (caretaker) on the ground floor. Therefore, street life is important to them: local bistros, brasseries and cafes are a favourite meeting-place throughout the day. Open-air markets, where people from different generations and social backgrounds mingle in a colourful display of exuberance, have remained the focal point of many districts.
Furthermore, Parisians have a reputation for trend-setting: a district suddenly becomes fashionable and everyone wants to live in it. This phenomenon is also apparent in two other important aspects of Parisian life, clothing and food, where there is a definite cosmopolitan influence.
SUBTLE CHANGES
The traditional way of life is gradually changing as the fabric of the population itself alters: the number of workers in high-tech industries, members of the professional classes and artists is increasing rapidly, while the contrast between wealthy western districts and poorer eastern areas is disappearing. At the same time, the pace of living has considerably quickened, inevitably damaging personal contacts. On the other hand, Paris is becoming truly cosmopolitan, which has brought greater cultural variety to the Parisian scene.
CULTURE FOR EVERYONE
Paris is as much as ever a melting-pot of artistic creation and a place where one can never tire of being a spectator, such is the wealth of cultural activities. Music, drama and the visual arts are taught at various levels, from the municipal schools to the national conservatoires.
Paris is also the place to visit for those who do not take an active part in culture but thrive on it: there are, of course, prestigious opera houses, concert halls and theatres, but there are also free concerts in many churches all over town and avant-garde plays in tiny obscure theatres.
In addition to their permanent collections, museums and art galleries organise temporary exhibitions. The number of libraries is increasing rapidly and there are still a record number of cinemas in spite of fierce competition from television. This brief review of the cultural scene would be incomplete without a special mention of two great multi-purpose cultural centres: the Pompidou Centre and the music and science complex at La Villette.
FOUNTAINS
Paris has many public fountains of all shapes and sizes, faithfully reflecting the architectural style of their time. Some, like the Fontaine des Quatre Saisons in the Faubourg St-Germain, were once the only means of water supply in the whole district. Others, like the Fontaine des Quatre Points Cardinaux on place St-Sulpice, were purely ornamental.
FONTAINE DU CHATELET
This is one of the 15 fountains that Napolean had built in the city. Dating from 1808, it is sometimes referred to as the Fontaine de la Victoire because it commemorates the Emperor's victories in Italy and Egypt. Most often, though, is is called the Fontaine du Palmier because its column suggests a palm tree.
Place du Chatelet, near the Hotel de Ville.
FONTAINE CUVIER
This very ornate fountain is dedicated to Georges Cuvier, the 19th-century zoologist who founded the study of comparative anatomy. Notice the crocodile turning its head round, something crocodiles apparently cannot do!
Corner of rue Linne and rue Guvier.
FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS
This Renaissance fountain gets its name from the 12th-century Sts-innocents Church demolished at the end of the 18th-century. Built in 1550 at the corner of the rue St-Denis by the architect Pierre Lescot and the sculptor Jean Goujon, it was later moved to the centre of the square and restored in 1865, when the original reliefs round the base were removed to the Louvre.
Square des Innocents, near Les Halles
FONTAINE LOUVOIS
This ornamental fountain by Visconti is a typical example of the decorative style used in urban architecture during the 19th-century. The statues represent four French rivers; the Seine, Loire, Saone and Garonne.
Square Louvois, near the Bibliotheque Nationale.
FONTAINE DE MEDICS
This is the most romantic fountain in Paris and one of the main attractions of the Jardin du Luxembourg. Built in 1624 by Salomon de Brosse for Marie de Medicis, Henri IV's widow, it is in the Italian style fashionable at the time.
Fardin du Luxembourg
FONTAINE MOLIERE
Situated at the intersection of rues de Richelieu and Moliere, this fountain is dedicated to the famous 17th-century playwright who died a few yards away at No 40 rue de Richelieu. Builto by Visconti in 1844, it shows the writer deeply absorbed in his thoughts.
rue de Richelieu, near the Palais-Royal.
FONTAINE DE L'OBSERVATOIRE
This impressive bronze fountain by Davioud dates from 1873. It depicts the different parts of the world - Europe, Asia, Africa and America - but not Oceania which would have spoilt the symmetry of the composition. It is also called Fontaine des Quatre Parties du Monde.
Avenue de l'observatoire, south of the Luxembourg gardens.
FONTAINE DES QUATRE POINTS CARDINAUX
Standing in the centre of the charming place St-Sulpice, this fountain is the work of the architect Visconti. Facing the four cardinal points of the compass are the busts of four well-known men of the church who never became cardinals.
Place St-Sulpice
FONTAINE DES QUATRE SAISONS
The street is too narrow to get a good view of this beautiful 18th-century fountain carved by Bouchardon. In the centre, the city of Paris looks down on the rivers Seine and Marne, while on either side, are figures representing the seasons.
57 rue de Grenelle
FONTAINE ST-MICHEL
This monumental fountain was built by Davioud during the Second Empire and is typical of the ornate style in fashion at the time. It is the favourite meeting-place of young Parisians.
Place St-Michel
SHOPPING
Part of the fun of staying in Paris is to go on a shopping spree. Deciding where to go, however, can be quite bewildering in any large city and particularly in Paris, where attractive shop windows are to be found round every street corner.
If you want to window shop, there are many possibilities waiting to be discovered all over town, from luxury and fashion boutiques of the 8th and 9th arrondissements to the flea-market on the northern fringe of the city.
SUGGESTIONS
Before you embark on a shopping tour of Paris there are a few facts you should be aware of.
It is dangerous to carry large amounts of cash as pickpockets are on the look out in crowded places. The safest and now the most widely used method of payment in boutiques, department stores and shopping centres is by credit card; but bear in mind that a minimum purchase of 100 francs is required.
Be prepared to pay cash, however, at market stalls and food kiosks.
Tax-free shopping is now common practice; look out for the symbol on shop windows. If you are a resident of a country outside the EU, you need to spend a minimum of 2,000 francs to qualify for a tax refund; if you reside within the EU, you need to spend at least 4,200 francs on one item. You are then given a special bill in two parts; the shopkeeper will tell you where to send one of the copies for a VAT refund, once it has been stamped by customs.
Although shops remain open quite late in the evening, individual shops are often closed on Monday morning, sometimes all day Monday, and if you are planning a long weekend in Paris, it is preferable to opt for Friday rather than Monday.
DEPARTMENT STORES
All the large department stores except one are situated on the right bank. Moreover, Parisians often refer to the St-Lazare-Opera district as the quartier des grands magasins, as the most prestigious of them are lined up along the boulevard Haussmann.
THE GALERIES LAFAYETTE
40 boulevard Haussmann
Tel: 42 82 34 56
THE PRINTEMPS
64 boulevard Haussmann
Tel: 42 82 50 00
Both established in the late 19th-century, tend to lay the emphasis more and more on elegance and fashion trends in clothes and accessories as well as household goods. Their extensive ready-to-wear departments have attracted all the main designers, who have their own stands within the department. The printemps has devoted a separate building to men's wear (Brummell). Cosmetics and perfume are lavishly displayed on the ground floor and both stores have comprehensive book and record departments as well as restaurants which are particularly crowded on Saturdays.
On the other side of the busy boulevard Haussmann, Marks and Spencer has acquired a faithful clientele through its up-market prepared-food department.
Two other department stores situated between the Louvre and the Hotel de Ville, along the rue de Rivoli, are less fashion conscious and mainly sought after for their household goods.
THE BAZAR DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE, known as the BHV
52 rue de Rivoli,
Tel: 42 74 90 00
Has an incredibly well-stocked DIY department in the basement.
THE SAMARITAINE
19 rue de la Monnaie
Tel: 40 41 20 20
Which attracts a similar clientele, was recently renovated and you can now enjoy a cup of tea on the roof terrace while admiring the splendid view over Paris.
THE BON MARCHE
38 rue de Sevres
Tel: 44 39 80 00
The only department store on the Left Bank, is rightly famous for its fine food section, l'Epicerie, which is open longer hours than the store itself.
RESTAURANTS
MARAIS, ILE ST-LOUIS
FFFF L'AMBROISIE
Superb cuisine and refined decor, reservations essential.
9 place des Vosges
Tel: 42 78 51 45
F BOUCHON DU MARAIS
Specialties fondue and cheese dishes.
15 rue Francois Olison
Tel: 48 87 44 13
F LE MARAICHER
Imaginative cuisine; excellent value for money.
5 rue Beautreillis
Tel: 42 71 42 49
F NOS ANCETRES LES GAULOIS
Four courses for a fixed price, unlimited wine included.
39 rue St-Louis-en-l'lle
Tel: 46 33 66 07
LES HALLES
F AU PIED DE COCHON
Serves traditional onion soup.
6 rue Coquilliere
Tel: 42 36 11 75
FF CHEZ BENOIT
The typical atmosphere of an old-fashioned Parisian bistro.
20 rue St-Martin
Tel: 42 72 25 76
FFF GERARD BESSON
Authentic gourmet cuisine; elegant, comfortable decor.
5 rue Coq-Heron
Tel: 42 33 14 74
F LE DIEU GMBRINUS
Stunning, 13th-century beer cellar.
62 rue des Lombards
Tel: 42 21 10 30
PALAIS-ROYAL, OPERA, CONCORDE
FF LE GRAND CAFE CAPUCINES
One of the top brasseries, serving excellent seafood.
4 boulevard des Capucines
Tel: 47 42 19 00
F LE MANDARIN
Chinese restaurant. Steamed specialities.
23 boulevard des Capucines
Tel: 47 42 49 56
FFFF LUCAS-CARTON
Superb cuisine supervised by one of Paris's top chefs.
9 place de la Madeleine
tel: 42 65 22 90
FFFF MAXIM'S
Probably the most prestigious restaurant in Paris, reservations essential.
3 rue Royale
Tel: 42 65 27 94
ETOILE, CHAMPS ELYSEES
FFF LE FOUQUET'S
Rendezvous of film stars and celebrities
99 avenue des Champs-Elysees
Tel: 47 23 70 60
FF LA FERMETTE MARBEUF
Fashionable but unpretentious restaurant, excellent low-priced menu in the evening.
5 rue Marbeuf
Tel: 47 20 63 53
F LE LYONNAIS
Specialities from the Lyon region.
26 rue d'Armaille
Tel: 45 72 00 82
FFFF TAILLEVENT
Situated in a 19th-century mansion, offering traditional high-class cuisine.
15 rue Lamennais
Tel: 45 63 39 94
TROCADERO, PASSY
FFFF JAMIN
Elegant cosy surroundings, cuisine inspired by a great chef.
32 rue de Longchamp
Tel: 47 27 12 27
F AU CADRE VERT
Pleasant decor, traditional cuisine.
4 rue Lekain
Tel: 42 88 78 77
F AU RENDEZ-VOUS DE LONGCHAMP
Grilled meat and pastries are specialities.
79 avenue Kleber
Tel: 47 27 87 58
MONTMARTRE
F AU PETIT MOULIN
One of the old cafes of Montmartre.
17 rue Tholoze
Tel: 42 52 42 16
FF LE CLOSDENIS
Tasty cuisine from Provence.
57 rue Caulaincourt
Tel: 46 06 20 26
F LE RESTAURANT
In a quiet street of old Montmartre, imaginative cuisine.
32 rue Veron
Tel: 42 23 06 22
LATIN QUARTER
FFF DODIN BOUFFANT
Seafood a speciality.
25 rue Frederic-Sauton
Tel: 43 25 25 14
FF L'ATELIER DE MAITRE ALBERT
Fixed-price menu including half a bottle of wine.
1 rue Maitre-Albert
Tel: 46 33 06 44
FFFF LA TOUR D'ARGENT
Perfect cuisine, very expensive.
15 quai de la Tournelle
Tel: 43 54 23 31
F LE GRENIER NOTRE-DAME
Vegetarian restaurant very close to Notre-Dame.
18 rue de la Bucherie
Tel: 43 29 98 29
ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES
F AUX CHARPENTIERS
Traditional publishers' haunt, tables outside in summer.
10 rue Mabillon
Tel: 43 26 30 05
FFF JACQUES CAGNA
Magnificent 17th-century house and excellent traditional cuisine.
14 rue des Grands-Augustins
Tel: 43 26 49 39
FF LONDON TAVERN
Fashionable pub with piano bar.
3 rue du Sabot
Tel: 42 84 03 10
FF LE PETIT ZINC
Typical Left Bank bistro serving excellent seafood.
25 rue de Buci
Tel: 47 34 01 13
F POLIDOR
Authentic bistro, convivial atmosphere.
41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince
Tel: 43 26 95 34
INVALIDES, FAUBOURG ST-GERMAIN
F LA PETITE CHAISE
Excellent value for money.
36 rue de Grenelle
Tel: 42 22 13 35
FFFF LE DIVELLEC
One of the top seafood restaurants.
107 rue de l'Universite
Tel: 45 51 91 96
FF VIN SUR VIN
Close to the Eiffel Tower, friendly atmosphere, copious savoury dishes.
20 rue de Monttessuy
Tel: 47 05 14 20
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