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At sunset the mountains encireling Athens turn a miraculously transparent purple which radiates over the waters of the Saronie Gulf to the distant chains or the Peloponnese rising behind the tri­angular peak of Aegina. No wonder the violet-crowned has been envied by gods and men ever since Poseidon and Athena disputed the patronage or the newly founded city. The God of the Sea struck the rock or the Acropolis with his trident, arid water as well as a Iicrv steed sprang forth. Yet the Olympian gods sitting in j udge­nu-nt awarded the coveted prize to the Goddess or Wisdom for her olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity.

The origin of Athens is lost in thc mists of time, in the Neolithic Age, though it is certain that settlers had taken advantage of the opportunities olli>red by the well protected plain between the moun­tains and the sea as early as 3000 B.C. Legend credits the Phoenician King Kckrops with the foundation of the town, named after him Kckropia, united with a dozen other villages and redcdicatcd to Athens by his descendant, the Serpent-king Erechthcus, who built the royal palace on thc Acropolis. Thc mythological hero Theseus united the warring small statcs of Attica uncler one ruler in the 10th century H.C., but by the early 7th century B.C. monarchy was re­placed in most of Greece bv the oligarchy of large landowners, and the last king, Kodros, was overthrown by the aristocracy.

Spartan intervention overthrew Hippias' benevolent dictatorship in 510 B.C., so that two years later Cleisthenes was able to promulgate the first truly democratic constitution. Thanks to a series of brilliant statesmen and generals like Themistocles, Cimon and Pericles the free citizens united in the glorious triumphs of the Persian Wars, when the vastly superior numbers of the enemy were defeated at Marathon, Salamis and Plataeae in battles which changed the history of the world.

  At the assumption of power by Pericles in 461 E.C., Athens had become the undisputed leader of Greece, the School of Hellas, and for thirty years was to enjoy the fabulous Golden Age which made it the most beautiful town of antiquity, the fitting home for unsurpassed intellectual and artistic achievements that long outlasted political greatness. The dissaster of the Peloponnesian War (431-404 E.G.) reduced Athens to the lstatus of a secondary power, and dcspite a short revival under the able leadership of Lycurgus in the fourth' century, the ancient, city-states had become an anachronism. The famed orator Demosthenes in vain whipped up some outdated local patriotism by his virulent speeches, but at Chaironia Greek democracy was crushed by the all-conquering Macedonians. Yet Alexander the Great, successive Hellenistic kings and, above all, the Romans were awed by the cultural prestige of Athens, lavished privileges on their proudest prossession and rarely interfered in the local government.

  For 200 years Athens united an unparallelled galaxy of geniuses III all forms of thought and art; philosophy reached the sublime heights of a Socrates, Plato and Aristotle who have influenced Western reasoning and civilization to this day; poetry blossomed

into the superb dramas of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides, Aristophanes transformed gross ribaldry into highly sophisticated political and moral satire; Herodotus' entertaining if inaccurate stories gave way to the admirably objective histories of Thucydides and

Xenophon to find a last masterly exponent in Plutarch.

  Not that the visual arts lacked behind; Callicrates, Mncsiclcs and especially Ictinos made the Acropolis into an altar of beauty still breathtaking after 2500 years of neglect, pillage and wanton destruction; Pheidias and Praxitelcs chose gold, ivory and marble for their splendid sculptures, inspired by the same wish for perfection which characterized the paintings or Appcles, Polygnotus and Protogcncs,

  Thc Roman conquest in 146 B.C. was soon followed by a spiritual conquest-in-reverse, making Athens the cultural capital of the Empire. Young Roman patricians studied there the refinements of the spirit in the philosophical schools and libraries, while large crowds .of tourists viewed the uniq uc monuments and art treasures. The second century A.D. witnessed a new flowering, actively supported by the munificence of the Antonine emperors and especially Haclrian, but though imposing by sheer dimensions the public buildings lacked the spontaneous originality of previous ages.

  Though St. Paul had preached his famous sermon about the Unknown God in Athens, paganism held sway in the town whose cmincncc, prosperity ancl eve-n livelihood depended on profane philosophy. Thc future Fmpcror Julian, the Apost.u c, Vias steeped in the passing beliefs in the lamed schools which were closed hv the Emperor .Justinian in ;)29 A.D. This lIdS the deathblow, alrr-r the appalling rC\ages of /\laric <me! his Goths in the preceding century.

   After several destructive sieges during the Greek war 01 penclcnec, the Turkish garrison finally surrendered to King in 1833 and the ancient prestige of the poverty-stricken ori cnt r town of some 6000 inhabitants determined the choice of At l capital of the resurrected kingdom.

  A group of German architects called by King Otho d cv a simple but attractive style of stuccoed fara des, ornamental nil'S and porches with Ionian columns, which spread royal palace long after Othos abdication, though st ill bcari name, ~\luch of it disappeared in the wholesale rebuilding 1950's and 1960's, which created a modern town of tall blocks I and sprawling suburbs, but most of the public buildings, 11 them neo-classical, of the previous ccnt urv still survive.

  Greater Athens, including Piracus and the suburbs, wit! on two million inhabitants has long burst its antique boui and extends over more than 150 square miles from the sea protective semi-circle of mountains.

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